Is Tofu the New Polypro? Backpacker, March 2007 (Gear Guide)
Plant-based fabrics are taking the outdoor industry by storm. But will they perform well enough to change the way we dress?
It´s our dirty little secret: The high-tech gear we tote into the backcountry isn´t exactly low-impact. Bacteria-squelching silver ions, used in some odor-resistant fabrics, can end up polluting groundwater. Petroleum-based synthetics deplete fossil-fuel reserves—and once they reach a landfill, they´re slow to biodegrade.
But don´t curse technology just yet. Advances in high-tech fabric processing are also spawning earth-friendly performance fabrics made from renewable plant sources such as bamboo, soy, coconut and corn. Ingeo, for example, is spun from a corn-based polymer made in a way that reduces fossil-fuel use by 68 percent over the traditional petrochemical process, according to its manufacturer. Not only are these new fabrics less harmful to the environment, they promise to wick moisture and combat odor as effectively as today´s synthetic standbys. That´s what an increasing number of manufacturers are claiming—and betting on—as they begin to incorporate plant-based fibers into everything from shirts to hiking socks.
Michael Hodgson, who reports on outdoor-industry news and trends as president of SNEWSNet.com, says market research indicates consumers want to buy green products, though not at the expense of fit and performance. "Unlike early recycled fleece, which was stiff and scratchy, these materials wear well, look good, and feel great," says Hodgson. "Plus, they feel good emotionally." And unlike organic foods, you won´t pay double for this stuff: Improved processing methods and more players entering the market have made natural performance fabrics affordable. In fact, prices on the 7 items we review below are competitive with—and in some cases, less expensive than—comparable garments made from high-tech synthetics and wool.
Some plant-derived yarns, like coconut-based Cocona, are blended with nylon or polyester; others, like Tofutech, contain 100 percent plant fibers. The best of the new fabrics feel exceptionally silky against your skin, making them as comfortable as they are crunchy. The cost of early adoption may be long-term durability: Our initial testing revealed several garments that snagged or pilled after a few days on the trail. But as manufacturing techniques mature and improve, durability is sure to follow. In the meantime, by steering away from fabrics that damage the environment, you can preserve the wilds you love—without having to wear a burlap sack.
Tested: Green Garments
Initial field reports on a new crop of eco-friendly clothes
ExOfficio Men´s Tofutech Tee
This all-soy fiber top feels soft like cotton, but dries fast and foils odor. Put to the sniff test, the Tofutech Tee stayed stink-free during a full weekend of Utah desert hiking, but three testers commented that the fit felt somewhat off. "It feels like it´s on backward no matter which way I wear it," said one.
Fox River Country Crew Socks
Blending foot-hugging nylon and spandex with Ingeo, a lusciously smooth corn fiber (see story above), the Country Crews keep feet cozy and maintain their shape on long hikes. One tester claims their soft, buttery feel even reduces chafing: During a long, rainy hike in Colorado´s Zirkel Wilderness, her ubiquitous hot spots never emerged.
GoLite DriMove Zip Top
This lightweight tee stayed funk-free for some testers, but not others; that´s the same thing we´ve noticed with silver-based anti-odor fabrics. Experts suggest it´s a body-chemistry issue, but Cocona´s activated-carbon finish, a product of discarded coconut husks, clearly kept armpit funk at bay for up to a week for several testers. The finish is silky and the cut relaxed, but the textured polyester outer weave snags.
Marmot Women´s Riva Capri
These capris look and feel satiny, but don´t be fooled: They´re as tough as the coconut shells used to make them. Another Cocona-infused polyester, this blend is quick-drying as well as odor-inhibiting.
White Sierra Men´s Tecta Shirt
"It´s like buttah" declared a tester who mistook the bamboo/poly Tecta for a silk shirt. White Sierra´s proprietary Bam-Bam Weave is 55 percent bamboo, a sustainable, super-fast-growing plant that thrives without pesticides. A mesh liner across the shirt´s upper back enhances the fiber´s natural breathability, which makes it ideal for warm-weather paddling.
Marmot Men´s Moso Short-Sleeve Crew
Testers liked the sumptuously rich, soft feel of this tee so much they refused to take it off for post-hike repasts. No problem: The unique antibacterial properties of the Moso´s bamboo fibers kept testers smelling fresh from trail to town. With an SPF of 40-plus, it also provides sunscreen-like UV protection. Unfortunately, it started pilling quickly when worn under a pack harness.
Wickers Women´s Ingeo Long-Sleeve Tee
Made of 100 percent Ingeo, a this simple crew neck disperses perspiration without the chemical additives often used to enhance wicking. Even sweaty climbs in Colorado´s Vasquez Peak Wilderness couldn´t soak this baselayer, which kept our tester dry and thus helped prevent chafing.
