Refuge with a View, 5280, December 2003
The mountain landscape surrounding Leadville has never been lauded as an oasis. This is not the land of soothing hot springs and spa treatments--though after taking on this terrain, you may well need both. Which is precisely the allure of the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse: Nestled among some of Colorado’s most starkly beautiful peaks, the Cookhouse pampers the hearty diners willing to ski a mile through the forest to savor their supper.
The history of the Tennessee Pass region is filled with characters tough enough to tackle a harsh and rugged environment. Miners seeking silver and other precious metals were among the first to venture into the area. These fortune-hunters braved hardships below ground as well as above, and for some, like Horace Tabor, the risks paid off handsomely. During World War II, the Tenth Mountain Division trained at Camp Hale, situated in an alpine park so menacingly cold that battling the German and Italian forces at Riva Ridge probably came as a relief to those American soldiers on skis.
Luckily, the trek to the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse is not nearly so demanding. The route begins at the Piney Creek Nordic Center, located at the base of Ski Cooper. Here you’ll be outfitted with skis or snowshoes, a headlamp, and a guide; or, if you prefer, you may arrive earlier in the day and, with trail map in hand, tour around Piney Creek’s 25 kilometers of groomed trails before making your way to the Cookhouse.
But if you choose the most direct route to dinner, you’ll travel over a one-mile, wooded trail that climbs steadily but gently to the spacious yurt. Though the aromas from the kitchen will set your stomach rumbling, it’s worth lingering outside for a few minutes on the open deck to watch the sunset transform the snowy flanks of Mount Massive into rosy alabaster.
Inside, a potbelly stove dispels the chill, and candles and gas lanterns softly illuminate the circular dining room, where about 35 guests sit down to tables set with stemware and cloth napkins. Beer and wine is available, and although the wine list is small, each excellent bottle is thoughtfully chosen to complement the menu. Entrees must be ordered ahead of time, and they’re worth looking forward to: grilled elk medallions with wild blueberry-sage sauce; rack of lamb with rosemary-pistachio pesto; teriyaki salmon; a vegetarian option that changes nightly.
Once seated, you’re treated to an appetizer platter of various delectables, such as slices of goat cheese pizza and morsels of wild boar sausage. A choice of soup or salad is the next course, followed by your pre-selected main dish. If you like, you can enjoy an after-dinner cordial along with the house-baked fruit pie for dessert.
Of course, orchestrating gourmet meals for 35 in a yurt with no running water or electricity takes some doing. Chef Casey Puntenney has been performing this dazzling feat for the past 2 years, and he prefers the unique challenges backcountry wizardry to more traditional restaurant work. “All the prepping is done down in town,” he explained, “but there’s still a lot to bring up to the yurt. We hook up sleds to snowmobiles, and they can carry a lot.” They must, since 45 gallons of water must be hauled in each day for cooking, drinking, and dishwashing. The fruit pies, once prepared, are frozen solid so that they can survive the trip up to the yurt, where they’re baked nightly.
All this effort results in a unique kind of luxury. The exquisite food, the cozy candlelight, the stars blazing over high mountains combine to form an unforgettable enchantment that lasts long after you’ve skied back down to your car and driven away.
If your trip to the Cookhouse leaves you hungering to log more snowy miles in the mountains, there’s no shortage of adventure options nearby. Ski Cooper has long been popular with families who enjoy affordable downhill skiing/snowboarding minus the crowds that are common at many of Colorado’s bigger resort areas. Thrillseekers might prefer to plunder some backcountry powder with the Chicago Ridge Snowcat Tours, which can serve up as much deep-snow skiing as your thighs can handle.
Several companies rent snowmobiles or, if you’d prefer to conserve fossil fuels, dogsleds. Either option will take you through spectacularly beautiful high-alpine terrain, but how many people can say they’ve cried “mush!” behind a team of Alaskan Huskies? Nova Guides (970/827-4232) or Alpine Snowmobiles (719/486-9899) can help you choose the right escapade.
Or take in a dose of history as you enjoy the alpine scenery along the Mineral Belt Trail, which is groomed for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and winter cycling. By following the routes of former railway lines, the 12.5-mile Trail winds through the remnants of past mining operations as well as forests and meadows. There are several access points for the Trail, making it possible to do as long or as short a tour as you like.
There’s more Leadville history awaiting you in town, where several museums and attractions preserve the town’s colorful mining history. In its heyday, the Tabor Opera House brought in world-class performers for the edification of ore miners and the likes of Doc Holliday. Its opulent ballroom is currently undergoing restoration, so that by Spring 2004, visitors will be able to appreciate this curiosity in all its boomtown splendor.
While there are several other noteworthy museums in Leadville, the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum leads the pack. The high quality of its collection has prompted the Smithsonian to consider taking it over as an extension of itself, a distinction offered to very few museums across the nation.
It’s rugged country, but the Tennessee Pass region gives as good as it gets. Not convinced? Sip a glass of wine from the Cookhouse porch. We promise you’ll swear off valet parking forever.
IF YOU GO
Directions:
From Denver, take Interstate 70 west. Merge onto CO-91 via exit 195 (Copper Mountain/Leadville exit). CO-91 turns into U.S. Route 24, which takes you into downtown Leadville.
Where to stay:
Leadville Country Inn (127 E 8th St, 800-748-2354), a well-appointed bed-and-breakfast located in the heart of historic downtown. Peri & Ed’s Mountain Hideaway (201 W 8th St, 800-933-3715), excellent value, a comfy bed-and-breakfast for families. Pando Cabins (Route 24, 888-949-6682), closest lodging to the Cookhouse, suitable for larger groups.
Contact information:
Pass Cookhouse (719-486-8114). Advance reservations required, $60 per person (price subject to change) includes equipment, guides, and dinner but does not include alcohol, tax or gratuity. Visit www.leadvilleusa.com or call the chamber of commerce at 1-800-933-3901 for more information.
